Creek Water

Colors in the order they go on

✓ All 2 colors we track on our shelf at Hamilton Place.

Tools

• Fan Brush
• Sponge Dotters
• Paint Palette/Dishes

Prep your piece

• Before you get started, be sure there's no dust on your piece. A dry or suuuper damp sponge can help get any excess dust you find off.
• Next, use a water-based marker to draw a line around the foot (bottom) of the piece - this is the do not paint line. Anything glazed below that line will stick to our kiln shelves and ruin your work (sad for everyone).
• Lastly, be sure to let your glazes dry fully between coats. Otherwise, we might end up with issues during firing such as pinholing or crawling.

Here's how tap a step when it's done

1. 1Create two rows of 'w' shapes, larger on top, and smaller beneath and slightly offset to the large ones you did, around the top inner rim of the plate using the fan brush. The larger the swoop the more loose the flow will be; the smaller the swoop the tighter the flow.
2. 2Use the sponge dotter and #2310 (Teal Tomorrow) to create dots inside the top 'w' shaped swoops you've made.
3. 3Use a different sponge dotter and #2372 (Mocha Fudge) to create dots inside the bottom half of the 'w' shaped swoops you made.
4. 4Glaze the outside of your piece, up to the 'do not paint' line, with 2 coats of Northern Woods.
5. 5Glaze the inside of your piece with 2 coats of Beetlewing.
6. 6Use Mystic Jade to add in 2 coats on top of your dots and 'w's.
7. 7Ask us how to sign your work then leave it with us for firing!

Tips

• Note: Go for 3 coats of dots so we get full movement from the interaction between glazes.
• Note: if you're a light handed painter, you might need to go for 3 coats.
• Note: the crystal top coat really makes things move; you can cover the entire inside if you like but please don't paint below the 1/3 point of the outside to prevent the glaze from flowing off of the piece.